Okra in Aquaponics

It has been awhile since I've posted.  As I've written before, there is not much gardening that goes on in South Florida once the rainy season starts.  Our temperatures are in the 90's almost everyday.  In the month of June we had over 15" of rain and that was before our first brush with tropical weather.  To say that it is hot and humid would be like saying the Atlantic Ocean has a little water in it.

It is very hard to grow anything edible in those conditions (well except that the mangoes and avocados are getting ripe).  The irony of all ironies is that I can grow a few things using aquaponic techniques during this time.  Yes, plants that would drown from all the rain if they were planted in soil will do OK if they are planted in water.  They just must be plants that can take the heat.

Right now in my at home aquaponic gardens, I have purple hull peas, mint, lemon balm, rosemary, vinca, french marigold, oregano, miniature pepper,  green onion, and lots of okra growing.  The okra are the plants from the Floaters versus Sinkers seed wars I chronicled.  As I suspected, there is really no difference between the floater and sinker seeds once the seedlings were planted.

However I am seeing a difference in how the okra is growing using different techniques.  Unfortunately I don't have photos of  the plants that were growing the best.  These were the plants that were in NFT tubes.  Even though the okra variety is Cajun Jewel, a dwarf variety, they still get several feet tall.  Once I could no longer reach the plants in the tubes, I had to take them out and transplant them.  This involved pruning both roots and tops.  I re-established them in my newest  media grow bed with my purple hull peas and due to the pruning they are now the smallest of the plants.  Bonsai okra so to speak.

The okra in the DWC (deep water culture) rafts are growing steadily.  However they have not flowered and produced fruit yet.  As you can see, the plants are exceptionally healthy and should be flowering any day now.  By the way, the crud on the raft is caterpillar poo.  Hubby thought it would be nifty to put some zinnias on the raft, but instead grabbed some of my milkweed seedlings.  Needless to say it only took a few days to have monarch eggs and within 10 days they had hatched, eaten every bit of milkweed on the raft, and then conscripted into the caterpillar relocation program (CRP).

The okra that were planted in media beds filled with hydroton and gravel are also doing well.  They have just started to flower.  What is odd about this set outperforming the set in the raft is these plants receive an eastern exposure.  The plants in the raft get a southern exposure.  Southern exposure equals more sun, however the eastern exposure plants are outperforming their southern kin.  I know that there are people sold on DWC for all plants, but it has been my experience that in most instances plants in media beds do better.  Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I get more nitrates using a media bed than depending on the biofilm on the raft.

The current superstar okra (since their kin in the NFT tubes got the bonsai treatment) are the okra that are in a bed of lava rock and a small layer of gravel.  I really don't like planting in lava rock because even with gloves on your hands it is hard work and always seems to ruin my manicure.  But those lava rocks provide an incredible amount of specific surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to take hold.  The honeycomb
structure is similar to zeolite.  These okra plants have already begin to bloom, fruit, and produce their first harvest.  The okra have already crowded out the bottom row of NFT tubes that are mounted over the bed. I am planning on using that tube again when the okra get just a bit taller.  As I did last year, I will use the okra as a shade for other plants on that bottom tube.  This system is getting southern exposure like the DWC system, but it is doing so much better.

I was joking with a fellow gardener on-line this morning that I know so much useless information about okra.  It is in the same family as the hibiscus and cotton.  If you have ever seen an okra bloom, you know that they are very beautiful flowers.  And if you time time to actually look at an okra bud and bloom then you can easily see how hibiscus and okra are related.  The buds and flowers are shaped in a very similar manner.

I know lots of people don't like okra, but I think you just have to give it a chance.  It is only slimy if you boil it.  People eat oysters and they are slimy!  If you have an overabundance of okra, pick it while it is small and make pickles.  I like them pickled hot, bread and butter, or dill style.  I don't think I have ever made the acquaintance of an okra pickle that I didn't like.  I can't say the same for cucumber pickles.  Besides what would gumbo be without okra?  Okra is the defining ingredient in gumbo.  If it isn't thickened with okra, then it is just another soup. And okra makes an excellent fried vegetable. 

 By the way, I planted some of my okra seedlings in soil on the same day as I placed the others in the aquaponic gardens.  I've even given them a little fish emulsion to try to make things even.  The growth of the plants in soil can't be compared to even the slowest growth of the plants in the DWC system.  The soil based plants are not as richly colored and have not produced a bud or bloom yet. Their leaves are smaller and the plant stems thinner.  But they do attract visitors.  I wonder if this monarch is related to any of the 'pilars that started out on the DWC raft?  

If you have never tried to grow okra, I encourage to give it a shot. It is very forgiving and once it gets going is a prolific producer.  Even if you grow in soil, I still recommend growing the dwarf varieties because okra can get tall.  And last but not least, be sure to save some of your seed.  All of these plants are from last year's seed.

OK, I've shown you my okra......let's see yours!

Krazy for Kohlrabi!

Kohlrabi is a forgotten gem.  With the resurgence in interest in heirloom and other older vegetables kohlrabi may be poised for a comeback.  Look at how kale is the current trendy food when not too long ago it was eaten only because it was cheap and easy to grow.

Kohlrabi is the royal cabbage.  While it looks like a root vegetable, it is actually the stem of the plant you eat.  The name comes from the German for Cabbage Turnip.  When you look at kohlrabi (especially the purple varieties) you can see how it looks a bit like a turnip.  However, it is a member of the Brassica family.  Just like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts it has been selected by man for the characteristic of the bulging stem.

Looks Like a Turnip Tastes Like Broccoli

I am currently growing them using a flood and drain grow bed, deep water culture rafts, and nutrient film technique tubes.  Much to my surprise they are growing best with NFT.  I really thought they would excel in the grow beds and that they would be too top heavy for rafts or tubes. 

They do lean in DWC rafts and for some reason their bulb becomes elongated.  Doesn't change the taste but if you are growing for looks, well it looks odd. 

Leaning Tower of Kolhrabi

If you are growing for looks, you probably aren't growing kohlrabi to begin with because well
                     it is an odd looking veggie.
                                                                 Isn't it?

Kohlrabi can be eaten raw or cooked.  The taste is like the stem of the broccoli with a little bite of radish thrown in for a kick.  The smaller the "bulb" the more tender it is.  No matter the size, you certainly want to peel it before you eat it cooked or raw.  It has a very tough outer skin.

It is used in Asian and German cooking.  I prefer it cooked, but that is probably because that is how my Mom cooked it. 

If you look on the internet, you will find recipes for cooking the bulb and leaves.  I've never eaten the leaves....I was taught incorrectly that the stems and leaves were toxic to humans.  As an adult, I realize my Dad probably just said that because he didn't like the leaves. 

If you want to try it for yourself, it is very easy to grow in soil or in an aquaponic garden.  It likes cooler temperatures so you can direct sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost.  So get them in the ground soon! They like a pH in the 6's and they need water to develop that fleshy stem.  If you grow in soil, beware that they have shallow roots.  Keep them well mulched if using soil. I haven't had a problem with cabbage worms but I did have to spray for aphids with my pepper/garlic spray (read about that here) on one set of tubes.  If using aquaponics, give them a try in NFT tubes.  I've been getting great results in both small and large tubes.

Are you krazy as I am for kohlrabi?

Super Greens are Super Food

Super greens and power greens.  They are all the rage with foodies and nutritionists alike right now.  Everyone is crazy for kale.  I like kale as much as the next person (I even have loads of it started right now) and I have high hopes that kale can be my next chard.

By "next chard" I mean a plant that sprouts easily, thrives in the aquaponic environment, and produces an abundance of edibles.  Since the fall, we have been enjoying an abundance of chards.  We have the traditional Fordhook chard as well as the Bright Lights colored Swiss chard.  As usual, the seed from Southern Exposure had a germination rate of almost 100%.

I admit to sprouting the chard seeds in soil and a wicking bed I rigged up, but once they hit the auqaponic systems they took off.

Chard in NFT Tubes on A-Frame

Bright Lights Chard in DWC raft

Chard in expanded clay media bed, flood and drain

While they seem to have done best in the NFT tubes, they performed well using all techniques.

I have been harvesting with a "cut and come again" strategy.  This means I don't harvest the entire plant at once.  I harvest the lower leaves and the plant continues to grow from the top.  This explains the odd growth pattern you may see in the pictures. The stem may start growing a little crazy, but the plant continues to produce new leaves and that means more for us to eat.

It means so much to eat that I have been stretching my culinary capabilities to find new uses for chard.  Chard pizza anyone?  It was actually quite tasty.  I wilted the red chard before baking it on the pizza.  Chard frittata?  It made a yummy brunch.  Of course sauted chard, boiled chard, chard wilted with bacon, chard and cornbread. Chard has made its way into just about everything but the Cheerios.  But if they keep going this strong, the Cheerios might be next.

Seriously, if you are going to the trouble to grow your own food, why not make it something that will pack a nutritional punch.  Chard has at least 13 flavonoids. One of the primary flavonoids found in chard is syringic acid. Syringic acid has recently received special attention due to its blood sugar regulating properties. It has been shown to inhibit activity of an enzyme called alpha-glucosidase. When this enzyme gets inhibited, fewer carbohydrates are broken down into simple sugars and blood sugar stays steadier.  This is important to anyone that is concerned about diabetes, weight control, or eating low on the glycemic index.

Chard also is rich in betalains, just like its cousin the beet.  This phytonutrient has antiinflamatory, antioxident and detoxification properties.  Chard as a beauty product?  Sure, if we are what we eat, why not eat something rich in vitamins A and K so that healthy skin starts from the inside. Chard packs a punch of vitamin C as well.  If you are fearful of the oxalic acid found in chard, be aware that it is concentrated in the stems.  So, all you have to do is add the stems first (so they will cook longer than the leaves) as heat destroys the oxalic acid or if you are eating the chard raw, just discard the stems. 

Got any good chard recipes?  What is the super survivor in your garden right now?

A Tale of Two Eggplants

I love nightshades.  They are one of the most diverse families of plants and contain some of my most favorite things to eat.  The Solanaceaes include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes.  It also includes petunias and tobacco..  You can keep the potatoes, petunias and  tobacco.  I don't smoke, I don't like to eat potatoes ( I prefer rice) and petunias stink. But tomatoes, peppers and eggplants....Oh My!  And cooking all three together?  Even more Oh My!

I am currently growing several types of tomatoes, peppers, and one type of eggplant.  I have had poor luck with germinating pepper and eggplant seeds this season for some reason.  I put my eggplants in two different test systems this time to see if there was a difference in plant growth or production.  Early results say that my eggplants are preferring a flood and drain environment to a deep water culture (DWC) system.

Here is the picture of the eggplant in my flood and drain test bed. 

The largest leaf on this plant measures 9" wide and is 11" long. As a matter of fact I had to tie it up today as the leaves are so heavy the plant had flopped over and was shading the rosemary.

Here is a picture from the deep water culture test bed.

The largest leaf on this plant measures 4" wide and 4" long. It has just flowered.  Same type of plant, planted at the same time.  By the way, look in the background of this picture and you can see how much my onions love DWC. If you don't have onions in your DWC get some now!

The flood and drain system is only slightly older than the DWC by about 2 weeks.  Both systems were cycled early last spring so they are approaching their first birthday.  Both have the same number of fish.

So far, it is looking like flood and drain is the way to go for growing eggplant.  Part of making sure your garden can survive is testing things out to see what works best.  Before growing anything on a larger scale, I run a test garden. I am also currently testing peppers in flood and drain versus nutrient film technique (NFT).
Stay tuned for those results.

How do you grow your eggplants?